THE HAIR CUTICLE

Before we dive into porosity, we have to learn about the hair cuticle. The cuticle is the tough, protective outer layer of your hair that’s made up of smaller cuticles that overlap each other (similar to shingles on a roof). For hair to stay healthy and hydrated, products need to be able to pass through the cuticle.

WHAT IS HAIR POROSITY?

Hair porosity describes the extent to which hair absorbs and retains water, products, and treatments based on the integrity of the cuticle. There are three levels of porosity. High, Medium, and Low Porosity.

HIGH POROSITY

High Porosity hair has a compromised cuticle. The shingles of the cuticle are more widely spaced. This can happen from mechanical or chemical stressors such as blowdrying, bleaching, straightening, using harsh products, and too much sun exposure. Because of this, high porosity hair absorbs water and air dries quickly but it also struggles to retain moisture. This can leave hair feeling dry, it can tangle easily, and those with high porosity hair can experience excessive frizz and breakage. Chemical treatments on high porosity hair can be accelerated and inconsistent in some cases which can also lead to more damage. High porosity hair benefits from protein treatments, protein fills the voids of the compromised/lifted cuticles.

High porosity hair requires more moisturizing products — like the Super Moisture Masque and the Super Nourish Duo — it also benefits from the Restore Leave-In Conditioner and the entire Damage Repair Line.

MEDIUM POROSITY

Medium Porosity hair’s cuticle shingles are less tightly bound allowing hair to absorb and retain moisture and hydration reasonably well. Typically, hair can absorb 75% of the maximum amount possible within minutes. Medium porosity hair tends to air dry quicker, be easy to style, hold style for a good length of time, and look healthy, shiny, and/or glossy. It’s also receptive to bleach, colorants, and relaxers.

LOW POROSITY

Low Porosity hair has a cuticle that lays flat — the shingles are close together. This means that hair is more resistant to water and hair will take a significant amount of time to get wet and a significant amount of time to air dry, while also struggling to stay hydrated. Because the cuticle lays flat, products struggle to penetrate it and they can build up on the surface of the hair. Chemical treatments are also less effective on low porosity hair.

Low Porosity hair benefits best from protein-free conditioners like the Intense Repair Conditioner. Using heat to open up the cuticle when masquing and conditioning is also beneficial, you can use a heat cap, hot towel, hooded dryer, etc.

HOW TO TEST YOUR HAIR POROSITY

THE FLOAT TEST — take a strand of freshly washed hair and place it in room temperature water. Make sure the hair isn’t touching the side of the cup and allow it to sit in the water for a few minutes. If the hair quickly sinks to the bottom it’s high porosity, if it sinks to the middle of the cup it’s medium porosity, and if it floats it’s low porosity.